A Coveted Complication

Chronographs have always been one of the most coveted complications in watchmaking, and even to a bystander who knows nothing of watches, a chronograph watch certainly gives more to look at. However, good chronographs don’t tend to come cheap, especially if you’re looking at mechanical ones. But for those of us who don’t have the budget to drop a year’s worth of college fees on a watch but are still looking to get a good chronograph, fret not for we have found a few worthy gems for you.

Granted, if you’re looking for a proper mechanical chronograph, you’d have to expect to pay proper mechanical chronograph money for these watches. That doesn’t stop our picks here; both mechanical and quartz alike. To be anything less than superb value on what is an otherwise niche market. Now, with that said, let’s take a look at what’s what.

 

TISSOT T-RACE MOTOGP 2020 AUTOMATIC LIMITED EDITION T1154272705700 MEN'S WATCH

The Tissot T race line has always been a celebration of the brand’s ongoing partnership with the prestigious MOTO GP motorcycle race. The brand has always had a tradition of making limited edition watches within the T race range and this MOTO GP 2020 Automatic Chronograph is no exception.

Though for this one, Tissot has done a rather good job on the dial, giving it an almost Royal Oak Offshore kind of a vibe, which isn’t even a bad thing. Firstly, the bold numerals are applied, and the chronograph subdials are nicely recessed and completed with a carbon fibre finishing. The case is where the design cues of this watch start to dial up to 11.

Featuring a unique brake calliper-esque crown guard and a brake rotor like bezel, the watch certainly harks to its motorsport heritage. The crown guard is merged nicely with the date magnifier which while large, gets the job done nicely. The pushers are nicely detailed too with a bold Start and Reset etched into the sides so there can be no mistaking what they are for.

Powering the watch is the ETA C01.211, an automatic chronograph movement that beats at 3Hz and offers 45 hours of power reserve and is visible (barely) through the exhibition caseback behind the motorcycle style wheel cage beneath the window.

All in all, whether you’re a fan of the Moto GP or are just looking for a striking sports chronograph, the Tissot T race Moto GP 2020 is certainly a worthy contender.

  

LUMINOX RECON TEAM LEADER CHRONOGRAPH LM8841KM.SET MEN'S WATCH

 

The Luminox Recon Team leader chronograph LM8841KM.SET is a field military watch that addresses the need for a field watch that can not only reliably tell the time, but one that is able to help you determine your location and position as well. And in terms of tools and functions, this watch packs one hell of a punch. It features a chronograph, alarm, date, compass rimmed bezel for determining your bearings even when the sun is not visible as well as a tachymeter scale to measure walking speeds. If you’ve been in the Army and have been a Recce, you’d definitely love a watch like this during an op. And even if you’re not, it’s still a superb tool watch to have. Being a Luminox, night visibility is, of course, the brand’s specialty though this one comes with a neat bonus, using super luminova along the tachymeter scale as well as Tritium valves on the hands, hour markers, and bezel pip to ensure that all the information that you need, is readily visible when you need it in the dark. Though the odds of the watch getting thrown in at the deep end along with you behind enemy lines are rather slim, it’s still nice to know that it will be able to survive all of your life’s adventures and still look fantastic doing it.

 

ARIES GOLD G 7024 SBK-SBK MONZA CHRONOGRAPH MEN'S WATCH

The Aries Gold Monza is the brand’s take on what a modern racing chronograph should be like. Cased in 43.5mm stainless-steel, with sharp lugs and multi-faceted finishing on the surface and flanks. The Monza is an imposing figure on the wrist. The one we’re looking at today is one of my favourites from the range, coming in the distinctive Panda colourway.

Looks are where the Monza gets a flying start, its as simple and dimensionally correct as a racing chronograph should be. Bold and simple case, check. Clean and legible dial, check. Tachymeter scale, check. It’s a properly handsome watch, and with details like the applied indexes, framed date window, stepped sub dials. It’s a serious piece of kit too.      

Powering the watch is the ever-reliable Japanese VD53 quartz movement, which will offer you the reliable performance you’d expect from a watch of this pedigree. If you’re looking for a modern sporty chronograph with a bit of flair and the performance to boot, the Aries Gold Monza is certainly for you.

 

Seiko Presage Chronograph SRQ025J1

I don’t think our list will be complete without looking at one of the most coveted and sought-after complications in mechanical watchmaking: The chronograph. While Japanese mechanical chronographs may be hard to come by, there’s always a gem that appears every now and then that we have to look at, and this is it: The Seiko Presage Automatic Chronograph SRQ025J1. With an elegant case, vintage piston style ushers, a simple crown and long swooping lugs, its silhouette is as elegant as a dress watch should be.

The watch features a gorgeous stark white dial with a subtle yet distinct column wave-patterning, giving you something a little more to look at. Applied Breguet style Arabic numerals adorn the periphery of the dial which matches the gorgeous blued Cathedral styled hands perfectly as well. The watch is powered by the 8R48 automatic chronograph caliber offering a very traditional triple register chronograph function, 45 hours of power reserve and an impressive 4Hz (28,800VpH) frequency as well.

I think the SRQ025J1 is the perfect Seiko for any collection, and mechanically, it’s certainly one of the most impressive as well (aside perhaps, from the High beat 8L55 we’ve looked at just now). As such, it’s a timepiece that is a must-have in any enthusiasts’ collection.

 

TISSOT PRS 516 T-SPORT T1316171603200 BROWN LEATHER MEN'S WATCH

This Tissot PRS 516 T-Sport is a stunning H2hub exclusive and it’s the perfect chronograph for the petrol-head looking for a reliable, affordable chronograph to reflect their style and passion. The case is a classic sporty affair with equally sporty and classic piston style pushers and a tachymeter scale on the bezel as well.

The dial is a simple, sporty affair in a clean brushed silver with contrasting black sub-dials and applied Arabic numerals too. The bright red seconds hand and chronograph sub dial hands add a splash of colour to the otherwise monochromatic timepiece. Power comes from a Swiss ETA Quartz chronograph caliber with a 3-6-9 sub-dial layout, a properly symmetrical layout thanks to the omitted date window.

The PRS 516 chronograph is a great alternative to the competition, offering a Swiss made chronograph for ‘only’ $600. And being a Tissot of course, reliability will practically never be an issue over time. Overall if you’re looking for a sporty timeless piece that oozes motorsport style for yourself, this is certainly a strong contender.

 

SEIKO PROSPEX SOLAR CHRONOGRAPH SSC618P1 MEN'S BLACK RUBBER STRAP WATCH

This is probably my favourite looking watch on the list, or perhaps I’m just a sucker for rose-gold and black divers. In fact, I’m writing this as my rose-gold Seiko 5 SRPD76K1 is sitting on my wrist, but I digress. There’s something about a rose-gold dive watch that really appeals to me, maybe it’s because they remind me a lot of another much more expensive timepiece from a certain brand with a five-pointed coronet.

That brings us back to the SSC618P1 diver’s chronograph, it is, as you would expect from any of Seiko’s Prospex divers, a proper ISO rated diver, though I’d say this watch would sit more comfortably under a cuff in a board room than strapped against a diving suit 300 feet below the waves, though it can easily survive both. The rose-gold colourway gives the watch a much softer tone, almost dressy I would say, it still has all the design elements and boldness of a true tool watch but toned down for a more subtle and classy appeal. If you’re the sort who loves to pair your divers with your business attire, be it at work or for a night out, the SSC618P1 is perfect for you.

 

ARIES GOLD CHRONOGRAPH JOLTER BLACK STAINLESS-STEEL G 7008 BK-R LEATHER STRAP MEN'S WATCH

The Jolter is one of the brand’s few motorsports inspired timepieces, with a heavily industrial design and complex skeletonized dial, it pulls no punches in its style, making it one of the most unique looking timepieces you can get for the price. And with looks being the most instantly noticeable thing on the Jolter, lets stick with what we can see first. The Blackout G 7008 BK-R comes in a brushed black case, further emphasizing on the industrial design cues, with a black tachymeter scale bezel and black skeletonized dial. And the dial is where the fun starts, it is finished in a lovely black PVD, and is incredibly multi-dimensional with facets and bevelled edges finished nicely, put simply, it doesn’t look like cheap skeletonization. Even the seconds hand is given a unique twist, read from a sub-dial at 6 O clock, the seconds hand is more of a spinning pointed wheel than a hand; an incredibly tricky feat to manufacture but still done nicely nonetheless. Overall, the design is incredibly striking, and recognizable, so if you’re looking for a well-made and uniquely styled watch with a flair for the industrial, this is certainly one that you can consider.

We’ve talked about the design of the watch now let’s get to the nitty gritty, the movement and the build quality. The watch is powered by a Miyota 6S50 Mechaquartz caliber, essentially giving the chronograph the feel and sweeping seconds of a mechanical watch, but with the stability and accuracy of a quartz watch. It also has a neat little trick for the date complication, because looking at the 12 O clock window reveals that this has a Panorama date complication as well. So, mech wise, this watch has you covered, now for the true test of quality, its build. And the watch has an outstanding build quality for its price. The Jolter utilizes an AR coated flat sapphire crystal, a nicely brushed finishing on the case and 100m of water resistance.

So, if you’re looking for a watch within the $300 that can not only stand out in terms of design, but cream the competition in build quality, the Jolter is certainly a solid contender on your list of considerations.

 

A complication worthy of the collection

Finding the right watch can be hard, especially in this day and age where there are so many options available, and when we’re constantly being bombarded with information too. But it’s the thrill of the hunt that makes watch collecting worthwhile, that feeling you get when you’ve finally found the right one for you and the bubbling excitement that gnaws away at you when you finally pick up that watch. It’s truly a feeling to savour, and from one collector to another, never lose sight of that. Be patient, and look around a bit more, you’ll never know if the one is right around the corner. That being said, if a Seiko chronograph is what you’re looking for, we hope you’ll find yours on our comprehensive list.